In the mid-1980s, China began opening its borders to foreign tourists. At last, a lifelong dream of visiting the Middle Kingdom could become a reality. In late September 1985, we flew to Beijing and set off on a five-week backpacking journey across the country. We travelled mainly by train, but also by bus and boat. On one occasion, we flew from Shanghai to Kunming in south-western China. That domestic flight with CAAC Airlines turned out to be one of the most unusual experiences of our entire trip.

As we boarded the aircraft at Shanghai Airport, we realised that we were the only foreign passengers on the flight. The aircraft – a modern Boeing 737 – was completely full, and most of the passengers were middle-aged, dressed in the dark blue “Mao suit” that was still commonly worn at the time. Our seats were towards the rear of the cabin. About five rows ahead of us were the emergency exits over the wings.

Once everyone had taken their seats and a flight attendant had completed the usual safety demonstration, the aircraft pushed back from the stand and began taxiing towards the runway. Gabi and I watched with amusement as the passengers seated next to the emergency exits animatedly discussed and gestured towards the signs marked “EXIT”, accompanied by the corresponding Chinese characters.

Suddenly, I saw the man sitting by the left-hand emergency exit open what he apparently thought was a window. A rush of cold air swept through the cabin. Almost immediately, the passenger on the opposite side of the aisle opened the emergency exit on the right-hand side as well. After a few moments, they both closed the exits again, and the aircraft continued taxiing. Gabi and I looked at each other, hoping that one of the crew had noticed what had just happened.

About ten minutes later, we found ourselves back at the terminal, where the aircraft came to a halt. An obviously furious captain, wearing four gold stripes on his sleeves, strode briskly down the aisle. He stopped beside the row with the emergency exits and gave the passengers who had opened them a severe dressing-down. Naturally, it was all in Chinese, but his tone of voice and emphatic gestures left absolutely no doubt about what he was saying. The two passengers shrank back into their seats, clearly embarrassed by the reprimand.

We were then asked to leave the aircraft and wait in the terminal while a full technical inspection was carried out. An hour later, we finally took off and arrived safely in Kunming, our destination in south-western China.